Our Family Travel Logs: Yangshuo oh Yangshuo how I love you so.....

We took a night flight from the new airport at Xi'an to Guilin, as our journey was continuing south. On the way we passed the new mega city that was built in the middle of no where to support the expected growing tourism, but the tall buildings appeared deserted (saw recently a report on '4 Corners' about such developments in China where regional areas are required to meet GDP targets and the best way to do it in a 'directive economy' is to build buildings that no local can buy - virtually building new glossy ghost towns).

Flotilla of boats up the River Li

We arrived in Guilin close to midnight so Oren was in a screaming state too tired and uncomfortable. I was also at the end of my tether the pace was getting to us - Alex called it 'the no rest for the wicked tour'. Any way we didn't spend much time in Guilin (population 700,000) but immediately appreciated the new landscape and weather - beautiful mountains and humid tropical weather the gaudy 'Los Vegas like' light displays at the airport indicated we were at a favoured local tourist destination.

The dramatic Karst mountains

Guilin and surrounds is known for its karst peaks that follow the Li River, inspiring poets and painters. Karst peaks are weathered limestone formations. Erosion caused by the warm climate and acid rainwater has created many peaks some dramatic vertical columns (fenglin karst) and others cone shaped meeting other cones with dips in between (fengcong karst), there are also abundant caves and sinkholes caused by cave-ins in the area.

Local fishermen selling crabs and fish to a boat cook.

The next morning we boarded our boat to cruise 4 hrs down the Li River to Yangshou. The river is shallow but wide and the passing landscape is spectacular. A flotilla of boats headed off together, it was interesting to watch us all navigate the winding river and to see the small fishing boats approaching to sell their catches to the tourist boats. We passed lush green landscapes, tall bamboos, water buffalo, water birds and people going about their lives in villages along the river all under the backdrop of the eerie mountains. I spent my time taking lots of photos and enjoying watching the kids play their card games together.

Card games afloat!

We arrived in Yangshuo (population 310,000) relaxed and fell in love with the unique little town. You can see why the Chinese love to come here for holidays. There are lane ways of market shops lots of nice eateries, and a real holiday buzz. Every where you look it is gorgeous and the mountains dominate.

Cormorant fisherman

The clever cormorant

People here still travel on bamboo rafts and there are fishermen who still use trained cormorants to catch fish (though this is a tourist draw card too - you can have photos with the birds etc). The Chinese have been using tame cormorants for thousands of years. They fish at night with the birds wearing a collar so they can't swallow their catch. They swim just below the surface along the raft towards a light which is hung from the bow. When the bird catches a fish the fisherman pulls it from the water to remove it, then at the end of the fishing night the birds are fed for their hard work.

Tia chi in the park

Oren doing high kicks!

Playing cards in the park

Spring flower garlands

In Yangshou we did a Tia Chi class in the local park - 'when in Rome!', and a painting class as the area is renowned for its art, and saw the spectacular 'Impression's' show set on a lake with a mountain back drop it is a dramatic performance with a cast of thousands depicting the story of the ethnic minority groups in the area with rousing ethnic music (it was put together by the same people who did the opening ceremony for the Beijing Olympics so you can imagine how great it was).

Learning to paint bamboo leaves

Budding artist!

Night life in Yangshou

On one of the days we were in Yangshou we hired bikes and rode for 4 hrs into the country side. Its crazy but I know I wouldn't have done it back home - safety standards just drop when abroad. We navigated through erratic traffic in the city until the roads opened up to the green country side. Then we had to watch the puddle pot holes and the trucks that lumbered by. It was fun and the kids loved it. We stopped at a farmers restaurant which was a bit dodgy - the Chinese eat every thing so the chicken stew had the head still in it which the kids didn't like much. We went vego that day!

How deep are those puddles!

Petersen's go tandem

Farmers working the fields

I said no more photos!

We did it!

We love Yangshou

On our last day there we headed back to Guilin via a bus and visited Ludi Yan (the Reed Flute Caves) 10m caves winding for 500m through Guangming Hill, the grotto has many stalactites and stalagmites, the entrance was once covered with reeds that were used for making flutes thus the name. They aren't as spectacular as Jenolan's but the lights are colourful and very festive.