Full sail in Sanur!

Have spent a few days in Sanur, a sleepy sea side tourist town where the culture is a bit diluted but we've made the most of it. Haggled for a ride on a traditional fishing boat out to the edge of the reef which was nice - its called a jukung a dug out tree brightly coloured with a painted fish face, and bamboo mast and outriggers.

When a jukung has been made it is blessed with offerings of rice, flowers and fruit to appease the Gods and then the jukung is sprinkled with holy water by a priest before it is considered seaworthy. The fish face painting is the image of the mythical Gajah Mina (elephant fish) which has fierce bulging eyes to ward off evil. The spirit of Gajah Mina is also thought to bear the power of night vision and guide the jukung through all sorts of weather conditions.

Also hired bikes to ride the 4km beach side track passing all the resorts, restaurants and trackside stalls.  We needed a Gajah Mina to guide us through the many touts  "massage? braiding? you look in my shop?"

Next port of call is Legian!

Selamat tinggal!

Our little Legong dancer

Before leaving Ubud Hollander had a few hours of pampering and was transformed into a Legong dancer.  Balinese girls from about 7yrs learn to dance for temple ceremonies (and now the tourists).  Its a beautiful dance involving ornate costumes and head dress, with darting eyes and flickering fingers the dancers express the story of a kings ill fated war over a maiden.  

Burning up the highway to the 'Mother Temple'

Adorned ourselves in traditional sarong to visit the Besakih Temple (mother temple of Bali). It's positioned high on the slopes of Mt Agung an active volcano about 3142m high (Its last major eruption was in 1963 when many villages and people were killed, it didn't grumble today so we were happy).

This was a holy week so we visited at a good time, once a year the Balinese have to make pilgrimage to Besakih and make offerings to the gods and their ancestors. Its believed that they descend the heavens through the meru towers (black thatched tall structures) at the base of which the offerings are made. The Pilgrims carry on their heads baskets of food - fruit, bread, cakes up the mountain to the temple. It was a spectacle to see the continuous stream of people, all dressed in their finery to be pleasing to the gods. We participated in the offerings and were blessed with holy water and had wet rice stuck to our foreheads.

Got to say we had fun getting up there, it's about 1.5hr drive from Ubud and when you get there you have to walk up a steep hill to get to the temples, however there are some enterprising locals who offer rides on the back of their motor bikes to make the trip easier. So after some quick haggling we were all separated, Hollander on the back of one, me on another and Oren & Alex together we zoomed up the hill side, side saddle dodging the devotees - it was a blast! Oren loves motor bikes.

To Market to Market we go!

Got up early to go to the traditional market in Ubud this morning, this is were the locals buy and sell their produce. The food's so different - exotic fruits, spices, suckling pig, open air butchers, palm sugar, sweet cakes wraped in bananna leaf or palm, a beautiful array of flowers for offerings, and hand made offering trays sold in bundles. We bought some lotus flowers and a tasty treat for Alex which hasn't killed him yet!

Long iced tea after a mornings sweaty adventure

Headed out early to avoid the tourist buses and the 'local guides' to Goa Gajah (elephant cave). It dates about 11th century and is a small cave carved into a rock face. You enter through the demons mouth into a small chamber that has significance to Hindu's. In front are the bathing pools that have water gushing from water spouts held by 6 female figures.

On the way home we stopped off at Ubud palace to explore the grounds and then had our long iced teas at a deco like bar reminiscent of the early colonial times.

Selamat tinggal!

Hati Hati Elephants Crossing!

Selamat Siang!
Went to Taro today to go to the Elephant Safari Park which has been set up to be a tourist park but also a refuge for abused or abandoned logging elephants from Sumatra. The elephants looked cared for so we didn't mind partaking in the elephant treks through the juggle which ended in a plunge in the pool. The kids were really fasinated with the elephant poo the size of coconuts!

The trip to Petulu village wasn't so exciting as there wasn't the mass of herons we expected but we had a nice drive up there through the rice paddy's. Ended the day with fantastic Balinese dinner a Cafe Waylan which had the most gorgeous garden setting - lots of ponds, exotic plants, candles, and low kneeling tables hidden in quiet nooks.

Selamat Tinggal!

Holy Springs we made an offering!

Selamat Malam!

Enjoyed the exotic Gamelan orchestra and Legong dance last night - the dancers told a story about a beautiful maiden taken by a king which then lead to some drama and a battle - lots of darting eyes, finger movements and colourful costumes.

This morning headed off to Tirta Empul the Holy Springs discovered in AD 962 and believed to have magical powers - so we braved the communal change rooms and squat toilets and changed into swimmers and sarongs to have a dip - so beware we now have mystical powers which we will bring back to Kiama.

On returning to Ubud we did a class in making the gorgeous daily offerings which the Balinese make using coconut leaves and flowers. They leave them on shines in their homes, in the paddy fields and outside their businesses as an offering to their Bali Hindu Gods. The Balinese believe that they be created with a spirit of thankfulness and attention to detail - the skill that goes into them is incredible for such disposable pieces of art. We made some simple Canang Sari and Penjor.

Will be riding elephants tomorrow and checking out the nightly return of the white herons to Petulu village.

Selamat tinggal!

The Monkey's attacked!

Wandered down to Monkey Forest and explored the temples surrounded by troups of monkeys - the kids were terrified a few of them jumped on me and Hollander. Then we walked the hot bustling streets of Ubud and had a great lunch at the Lotus cafe next to the Pura Taman Saraswati (the water palace) which is just beautiful with lots of pink lotus flowers and fish swimming around. The clan then ventured into the Ubud craft markets and got harassed for a few trinkets. We all tried our hand at carving a wood turtle and will be venturing out tonight for a dance performance.

Selamat Malam!

We've arrived!

After about 12 hours of travelling - up at 5.30 - we arrived our time about 6.00pm (Bali is 3 hours behind). We are in the dry season but it is hot and humid with storm clouds looming.

We got out of the hustle and bustle of Denpasar and made our way to Ubud though congested narrow streets lined with craft workshops - stone & wood carvings, basket and roof thatching, temples, locals going about there own business, and a car accident which knocked a local and killed a dog which wasn't moved so traffic had to go around. As we approached Ubud the rice paddy fields increased and the lush tropical landscape emerged.

The resort is beautiful 'Komaneka at Monkey Forest' has a discreet entrance off Monkey Forest road one of the main shopping strips in Ubud which goes past its name sake and temples.

The kids love the geckos, fish filled ponds, the infinity pool on the edge of a jungle gorge and the flowers, they are also enjoying the attention from using Indonesian pleasantries with the locals. We woke this morning on our time so about 4am Bali hopefully we will adjust soon. Will venture out today and explore the Monkey Forest and try and see a Balinese dance at Ubud Palace tonight.

Selamat Tinggal!

Packing and trialing the 'blog post'

Selamat Pagi! We are actively packing and trying to downsize almost impossible when you've got kids wanting to take more, at least consuming chocolate helps. We leave tomorrow about 6am for Sydney and hope to arrive in Bali about 2pm (jokes about Garuda were very reassuring - thanks Megan). The Petersen clan is then heading inland to the mountain town of Ubud to take in the rice paddy fields, craft & traditional dancing then we are going to Sanur and Legian both beach side towns. We are away for a two week odyssey, now I going to upload a photo, this blogging thing isn't too hard.
Bye for now,

Susan and the clan