Sunday, February 10, 2019

New Caledonia Jan 2019

After a 3.5 hour flight from Sydney we landed in the French foreign territory of New Caledonia founded in 1853.  The place feels immediately different - for one its French speaking with alot of French tourists, and its incredibly expensive as most items are imported so the Australian Dollar to French Pacific Franc is not great, eating out cost 2 to 3 times more.

We went about learning about the history of NC a Melanesian Island originally home to the Kanak people, a penal colony for the French, known for its sandalwood and nickel, an awful history of 'blackbirding' - slave trade to tend the sugar cane fields of QLD and Fiji, conflict in the Kanak Independence movement of the 1970/80's, and currently in 2018 the rejection vote for Independence from France.   

Noumea the Capital is a port town on the main island, frequented by cruise ships and not that attractive.  We stayed at the Chateau Royal on the main beach of Anse Vata Bay, the on shore winds are strong so a popular spot for wind surfers. The town has a number of restaurants we tried out a recommended French restaurant on the harbour which was nice and had a large cellar on display of wines but the delight was an ice cream store called Amorino where the cones are filled with ice-cream made into flowers for you.  We visited the Tjibaou Cultural Center designed by Italian architect Renzo Piano to replicate the Kanak huts and to honour the Kanak Independence leader Jean Marie Tjibaou assassinated in 1989.   The highlight of our stay in Noumea was getting a water taxi to Ile aux Canards (Duck Island) visible from the mainland.  There is a coral snorkelling route with an amazing array of fish, we saw a reef shark and swam with a turtle that was really relaxed about us all excitedly swimming beside it.

The next stop was a 30mins flight to Ile des Pins over azure blue coral reefs. The island that we saw was still very untouched, lots of jungle and rural land tended by locals.  We stayed at the gorgeous Le Meridien and loved every moment of it, situated on the Bai d' Oro and walking distance through the jungle to the Piscine Naturelle - the renowned natural aquarium a beautiful pool which contains coral and tropical fish (we also saw a poisonous water snake a black/white krait).  The local people also take tourists on outrigger canoe rides across Baie d' Upi and then drop you on the muddy beach entry to the jungle trek back home to the resort. This triggered the kids to watch Moana again and start singing the theme song. The island is renowned for its pencil pines but also the unusual eroded rocky formations that prop out of the water which were evident  on the sail up the bay.  Le Meridien was so relaxing, read a book, had fun using the SUP's and canoes and laid about in the beach huts and hammocks.   We discovered a beach side cafe selling fresh lobster which was amazing, the setting idillic and the local cash handler/waiter a very blinged up rastafarian.   Ile des Pins is known for its escargot snails - we couldn't face eating them, but the shells are used as decorations around the place.  








Tjibaou Cultural Centre
Jean Marie Tjibaou
























Water taxi to Duck Island














Le Meridien


















Piscine Naturelle


 







Outrigger canoes on Baie d' Upi

Natural boom



Saw a turtle in Baie d' Upi





Jungle walk back to resort







Fantastic lobster lunch on the beach!
 

 


Oren washing his hands after lobster!

Escargot shells



















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